In Gujarat tea is literally ‘the cup that cheers’ at any time of the day or night. From the age-old kitlis the small roadside tea stalls where the sweet milky chai is constantly boiling on the hissing kerosene stove, to the upmarket ‘tea lounges’ where the menu offers a range of fancy artisanal teas, people of all ages and walks of life hang out. Tea is the essential companion to the range of farsans (savoury snacks) that are the identifying hallmarks of Gujarati food.  

While Gujarat is geographically almost across the country from the tea producing states in the east and south, it is probably the biggest consumer of tea leaves. The large-scale sale of tea leaves in the region began with the crossing of continents by a Gujarati entrepreneur Narandas Desai. The company he founded was to grow into one of the largest tea companies in India—Wagh Bakri chai.

The story begins in 1892 when Narandas Desai crossed the ocean to South Africa with the dream to start a business. He took on lease 500 acres of tea estates near Durban, and threw himself with focus and passion into learning the intricacies of cultivating and producing tea, as well as the business of selling it. While he was there he came in touch with Gandhiji who was beginning his own journey of learning to live and work on foreign soil. The two mutually respected each other’s work, values, and personal and professional ethics. They also equally faced the challenges of racial discrimination, which eventually led them both to return to their home country.

Narandas Desai returned to Gujarat in 1915, leaving behind a successful tea business. He came home with very little material wealth, but carrying a prized letter from Gandhi which stated: “I knew Mr Narandas Desai in South Africa, where he was for a number of years a successful tea planter”. He also carried in him the strong Gandhian ethic of hard work and honesty, as well as a sound knowledge of teas and the tea business.

After working briefly at a tea estate in Maharashtra, Narandas moved to Gujarat. He took a loan to establish, in 1919, the Gujarat Tea Depot, the first store in Ahmedabad to sell wholesale loose tea. The original clientele were workers in Ahmedabad’s many textile mills. The tea was procured from estates in different parts of the country; Narandas, from his South Africa experience had learnt how difficult it was to own and run a tea estate. As business grew, Narandas began sourcing and blending better varieties of tea leaves, and expanding his clientele.

In 1934, for the first time, the Gujarat Tea Depot, started selling tea under its own brand. The name selected for the brand was Wagh (tiger) Bakri (goat). The twinning of two disparate characters was intended to represent social equality—tiger representing the upper class and goat representing the lower classes. This was visually represented by a picture of a tiger and a goat drinking tea from the same cup. Here too Gandhi’s influence was visible. The company was not only a swadeshi one, its logo also indicated the support of the movement against caste-based discrimination. The unusual logo became an icon for the company’s ethos, and continues to be so even today.  

Narandas Desai’s three sons Ramdas, Ochavlal amd Kantilal joined their father in managing the growing business. The company also started an office in Kolkata to oversee and check the purchase of tea at auction centres there. Till 1980 Gujarat Tea Depot continued to sell tea in wholesale, as well as retail through 7 retail outlets. But by that time they also foresaw the burgeoning market for packaged teas. In response, the group launched Gujarat Tea Processors and Packers Ltd. in 1980, introducing packaged tea. Initially people were sceptical and hesitant to buy packaged tea as they were used to feeling and smelling loose tea leaves before buying. 

In the early 1990s, the company decided to introduce the concept of tea bags. This again, was uncharted territory. In a culture where boiling tea thoroughly was the norm, the idea of instant ‘dip dip’ tea was alien. Wagh Bakri took the risk and imported state-of -the-art tea bag machines from Argentina. The introduction of tea bags marked a paradigm shift in the tea scene.

The company continued to experiment and innovate, introducing new dimensions and products to the tea drinkers. All the generations of the Desais engaged totally in carrying Narandas’s vision to new heights and breadths, introducing new varieties into the packaged tea market. Through the journey they continued to adhere to their founder’s strong commitment to quality and affordability, targeting “decent profits, but not profit maximisation at any cost to company image and standing”. Even in the face of stiff market competition and many financial pressures, their product range has always carried an economically-friendly price tag. 

But before the product reaches the shop shelves, it is preceded by a great deal of research and evaluation. The research includes understanding the specific tastes of the region where the product is to be introduced. It even includes a study of the local water and milk commonly used for brewing the tea. Every region, if not every home, has its own preferences and tea-brewing processes. The Wagh Bakri team invests a great deal in understanding the preferences of its consumers and putting together suitable blends.

The ultimate test is the tea tasting in which the company’s directors are personally involved. The company’s headquarters in Ahmedabad has a large Tea Tasting Department. Tea samples procured from auctions of different estates, saucers of milky teas blended according to the quality of local water and milk, and weighing scales are systematically arranged. The company’s directors personally taste each sample and rate it according to colour, strength, taste and briskness. On some days 400-500 samples of tea are tasted. There is no compromise on taste and quality. Little wonder then that 50 per cent of the tea consumed in Gujarat is from Wagh Bakri.

While continuing to cater to the traditional tastes, the company is also aware that with international exposure, the younger generation is open to more flavours and trends. In response the company has launched a wide range of offerings from Oolong tea to Matcha tea. It was also the first to offer suitable settings to savour these gourmet teas by setting up Tea Lounges in Ahmedabad in 2006, and later in a few other cities.

The corporate office of Wagh Bakri was inaugurated in 2006. A fitting tribute to the founder whose vision, dedication and trust guided the company for over a century. While largely confined to Gujarat for nearly a century, the company started selling its tea in other states as well between 2003 and 2009. Wagh Bakri is not pan-Indian in its sales, but even with the limited states that it sells in, it is the third largest tea brand in India. It also has an international presence. As its directors believe, it is more than a tea company, it is a creator of connections and a nurturer of relationships.

Wagh Bakri’s executive director, and one of its key tea tasters, Parag Desai recently passed away at the age of 49, after a brain haemorrhage caused by a freak accident. A sad loss for the Wagh Bakri family of tea drinkers across the world. 

–Mamata