What is a whole grain high in dietary fibre, contains protein, vitamins and minerals, is low in fat and sugar, contains no cholesterol, is gluten-free, and helps boost heart health? Among the ever increasing list of ‘super foods’ is, what sounds an unlikely candidate. It is popcorn!

The snack that is commonly associated with brimming buckets in movie theatres and the overflowing bowls within easy reach of couch potatoes has been generally labelled as ‘junk food’. The fluffy crunchy nibbles have more to their history than their addictive aroma and innumerable flavours.

While the most common association of popcorn is with all things quintessentially American, the roots (literally) of its mother grain do not lie there. When we use the word ‘popcorn’ it usually refers to puffed kernels of corn. The word, in fact, refers to a whole grain, which belongs to a group of seeds that come from crops that include barley, millet, oats, rice, and wheat. Popcorn is a strain of maize characterized by especially starchy kernels with hard kernel walls, which help internal pressure build when placed over heat.

This was one of the first variations of maize cultivated from teosinte, a wild grass, in Central America about 8,000 years ago. The popcorn variety of maize was domesticated by Pre-Columbian indigenous peoples by 5000 B.C.E. It is believed that the first use of wild and early cultivated corn was popping. Early Spanish invaders to the Central and South America recorded their discovery of this multi-use maize. Ceremonies of the Aztec Indians involved the use of popcorn, not only as food but also as adornments, in ceremonial head dresses and, necklaces, and as offerings to their gods.

There is also evidence to indicate that the Native Americans also knew of, and consumed this form of popcorn maize. In the early 1600s European explorers who began travelling to the New World recorded that the Iroquois Native Indians in the Great Lakes region popped corn with heated sand in a pottery vessel and used it to make popcorn soup, among other things.

The folklore of some Native American tribes told of spirits who lived inside each kernel of popcorn. The spirits were quiet and content to live on their own, but grew angry if their houses were heated. The hotter their homes became, the angrier they would become, shaking the kernels until the heat was too much. Finally, they would burst out of their homes and into the air as a disgruntled puff of steam.

What is the science behind the pop? A kernel of popcorn contains a small amount of water stored inside a circle of soft starch. The soft starch is surrounded by the kernel’s hard outer surface. As the kernel heats up, the water expands, building pressure against the hard starch surface. Eventually, this outer layer gives way, causing the popcorn to explode. As it explodes, the soft starch inside the popcorn becomes inflated and bursts, turning the kernel inside out. The steam inside the kernel is released, and the popcorn is popped, hot and ready to eat.

The discovery of the exploding kernel may have reached the early colonial settlers to the new World, who were probably the earliest European-American popcorn makers. They tried several methods of popping corn—throwing kernels into hot ashes, cooking popcorn in kettles filled with hot lard or butter, or cooking over an open fire in a wire box with a long handle. By the mid-1800s popcorn became a favourite snack. But it remained largely a home-grown crop used for family consumption. 

In the 1820s it began to be commercially sold throughout the Eastern United States under the name Pearl or Nonpareil. By the 1840s the popularity had spread across the continent. By 1848 the word ‘popcorn’ was included in John Russell Bartlett’s Dictionary of Americanisms. It would be another few decades before the large-scale production of popcorn became possible. This happened when a Chicago entrepreneur named Charles Cretors built the first commercial popcorn-popping machine. Starting with a peanut roasting machine, Cretors went on to develop a machine powered by steam that ensured even heating, and popping, of popcorn kernels. One of the first such machines for popping corn appeared in 1885. Since the machine was mobile, and could mass-produce popcorn without a kitchen, the invention also increased the amount of people who had access to popcorn and thus, the popularity of the snack in America.

Popcorn really caught on during the 1890s. Street vendors, pushing steam or gas-powered poppers, became a common sight at circuses, fairs, and parks. By 1900, the enterprising Cretors introduced a horse-drawn popcorn wagon, and initiated a massive popcorn wave.  In fact, there was really only one entertainment site where the snack was absent: the theaters. Theatre owners felt that the buttery snack would stain their carpets, and the crunching would be a noisy distraction; this was still the age of silent films. Talking movies made their debut in 1927, greatly increasing movie-going audiences, and also customers for in-house snacks. As theatres were still hesitant to install popcorn machines, business for street vendors boomed. They brought their popcorn machines and sold just outside the theatre. Some theatres banned popcorn inside, which increased its attraction! 

The theatres had practical reasons for the not installing popcorn machines. They lacked proper ventilation, which would lead to a build-up of smoky popcorn odours. However, with increasing demand for popcorn they initially leased ‘lobby privileges’ to vendors who could sell there for a daily fee, and whose business continued to boom. Until the theatre owners finally realized the kind of profits that they were missing by not having their own popcorn machines, and went on to make and sell popcorn in the lobby. This proved to be timely; as America plunged into the Great Depression in the early 1930s, movies and a bag of popcorn was all that most families could afford for entertainment. Thus when many businesses collapsed the movie-popcorn combination thrived. And as they say, that was the turning point. Ever since, and up till this day, movie theatre lobbies are inextricably linked with the smell of hot popcorn, in many parts of the world!  

The advent of television in the 1950s made a big dent in movie-going and popcorn consumption. That is until people started making popcorn at home, leading once again to a surge in consumption. The introduction of the microwave, and micro-waveable popcorn was as significant a milestone in its history as was Charles Cretors’ first commercial popcorn-popping machine.  

America continues to be the largest consumer of popcorn in the world. So deeply is this snack entrenched in their lives that Americans have declared a National Popcorn Day to be celebrated on January 19 every year, and a National Popcorn Lovers Day on 14 March. Today popcorn is a favourite snack across the world. From the utterly butterly delicious plain popcorn, to a variety of flavoured ones, everyone has their favourite. Surely a good reason for all popcorn lovers to celebrate!

As a huge popcorn fan myself, cheers to happy Popcorn Lovers Day!

–Mamata