Ahmedabad – Millennial Matriarchs

I was recently on a nostalgia trip to Ahmedabad, visiting/re-visiting haunts of yore. One of these was Ambadvad ni Gufa (Hussain-Doshi Gufa for old-timers like me). This is an underground art gallery where both the structure and ‘contents’ are works of art

Born of a collaboration between the renowned architect Balkrishna Doshi and MF Hussain, it exhibits works of MF (Maqbool Fida) Husain, in a unique structure designed by Doshi. It is and unusual juxtaposition of architecture and art—a situation where a work of art contains works of art.

Hussain and Doshi both belonged to and loved Gujarat, and hence the decision to create a permanent structure in Ahmedabad which could showcase both their work.

The underground gufa (cave) has a roof made of multiple interconnected domes which are covered with a mosaic of tiles. As one descends a not-so-obvious staircase, the inside opens up. It has irregular and inclined tree-like columns supporting the domes. The roof and walls are painted by Hussain. Light enters the cave though snouts, creating spots of light on the floor. The lighting is thus very different at different times of the day, and creates a mystique of its own. The cave spans across 1000 square metres.

The inside walls serve as a canvas, on which Hussain painted with bold strokes and in bright colours. There are depictions of human figures and animals, including of course, his iconic horses. The idea was to recreate ancient cave-type paintings in a modern environment. A few metal sculptures of human figures are also placed in the niches between the columns.

However, the largest artwork is on the mosaic outside surface of the gufa. This is a depiction of the Sheshnag (divine serpent), winding across the surface over a length of 100 feet, and is visible at eye-level as one walks past the structure.

The Gufa is considered a milestone in collaborations across disciplines. When Hussain visited Ahmedadab once, he asked Doshi, who was a close friend, to design a permanent art gallery for his works. Doshi said he would design something unique but Hussain would need to rise to his structure in his artwork! The planning was a process of interplay of ideas.

The objective was to develop something contemporary, but based on ancient design ideas, and in sync with the natural environment.

Given Ahmedabad’s high temperatures, it was designed as an underground structure. The white porcelain mosaic tiles covering the outside reflect sunlight and reducing the heat reaching the inside of the structure. The Buddhist caves of Ajanta and Ellora inspired Doshi to design the interior in the form of circles and ellipses. The domes are inspired by tortoise shells (kurma avatar) . The mosaic tiles on the roof are similar to those on the roofs of Jain temples at Girnar. Hussain’s wall paintings are inspired by Palaeolithic cave art, and serpent by the Seshnag of Hindu mythology. The interior columns resemble columns at Stonehenge.

The Gufa has been attacked and vandalized several times—ironic for something designed as a syncretic work. In the very first attack on October 11, 1996, Bajrang Dal activists damaged 23 tapestry items and 28 paintings which were on display. The excuse for the attack was Hussain’s depiction of Hindu goddesses.

What is nice today is that there is a lively café around it, and young people throng the place. The Gufa is a part of a cherished hangout. They look on to the mosaic domes and the Sheshnag as they munch on their snacks and sip on their iced tea. And hopefully, through the process, imbibe an appreciation of the art so close to them, and moved to cherish both the art and the spirit behind the work.

–Meena

Last week, newspapers reported that when the Army Medical Corp Centre at Lucknow marked its Foundation Day, the marching band was led by Munna Havaldar. Mr. Munna is not a man but a goat, serving as a non-commissioned officer in the Regiment. And he is not the first! There has been a Munna Havildar in the regiment since 1951, the title handed down without break from one handsome Marwari goat to the next!

This is in keeping with the tradition of animal mascots that many army regiments, not only in India, but across the world have. Probably a tradition popularized by the British. Today, the British Army has nine animal mascots, from goats to ponies.

The Spanish Legion has its own goat mascot, ‘Odin’. The Bengal Tigress ‘Quintas Durga’, is the mascot for the 5th Battalion Royal Australian Regiment. ‘Chesty XV’ an English Bulldog is a mascot to the US Marine Corps. The Sri Lankan Light Infantry mascot is an elephant. This is a tradition since 1961, and they are all named after the most famous elephant in Sri Lanken history, ‘Kandula’. ‘Brigadier Sir Nils Olav’ is a King Penguin who is the mascot of the Kings Guard of Norway. Toronto Zoo is home to the Canadian Army’s mascot, ‘Juno’, a female polar bear. ‘Bill the Goat’ is the mascot of the United States Naval Academy.

Armies have both official and unofficial mascots or pets. Official mascots have a rank, and are maintained at the expense of the State. As with human soldiers, they too can even be promoted and demoted!

For some reason, goats are very popular mascots. In fact, they may be among the first-ever army animal mascots. The Royal Welsh Fusiliers have adopted goats as mascots since the 1770s, starting from the American War of Independence, during the famous Battle of Bunker Hill in 1775, when a wild goat entered the battlefield and led the Royal Fusiliers from the field.

Of course, goats are not very well-behaved or tractable. Lance Corporal William ‘Billy’ Windsor, mascot of 1st Battalion The Royal Welsh, earned a demotion in 2006 when he deviated from the parade he was leading in front of the Queen and tried to head-butt the drummers marching ahead of him.

Which reminds me of another goat which was a mascot not of a Unit in the Army, but of a road in Vastrapur, Ahmedabad. This strip of road (extremely narrow, bumpy and non-straight), lined with shops, parked vehicles, thelas and carts, temples and milling humanity, was a vital one connecting IIM, PRL, ISRO Colony etc. to the ‘other side’.

And it was ruled by a huge goat. He lay down in the middle of the road when he felt like, and all traffic had to flow around him. If he decided to take a walk and charge any pedestrian, they just had to make their way to safer ground. He was fed and pampered by all the shop keepers and denizens of the street. He had his pick of the choicest vegetables and fruits from the carts. If he felt like some sweets, he just had to make his way to one or the other sweet shop in the market. On festival days, he was festooned with garlands and daubed with paint. He was given to smoking, and the paan gallawallahs used to light beedies and put them in his mouth for him to puff at.

Sadly, the goat which gave the road so much character passed away of old age some years ago. Not being an Army Regimental Mascot, he was not replaced.

But thankfully, the road has been widened and smoothed!

–Meena

Tag: Ahmedabad

Hussain-Doshi Gufa

Get that Goat!