
Happy New Year! This is the day when many will be recovering from the feasting and celebrating that saw out the old year and ushered in the new. In some parts of the globe it may still be the time that family and friends gather for a New Year dinner. This is also the week when many New Year resolutions are made! Many of these, nowadays, relate to the intentions of going on a diet which eschews certain foods, or one that limits to certain foods. Instead, why not begin the year with some mouth-watering traditions of feasting rather than fasting!
While the entire world collectively celebrates the transition from the old to the new, different cultures and different countries have their own traditions that mark this passage. Food is an important component of these celebrations. Here is look at this interesting smorgasbord of dishes that define the festivities.
In Spain the old year is ushered out with a tradition called Las Doce Uvas de la Suerte or The Twelve Grapes of Luck. As the clock strikes at midnight people mark each chime by eating a single grape. The twelve grapes thus eaten symbolize good luck for each month of the coming year. The tradition dates back to 1909 when there was a surplus harvest of grapes in Spain and people were encouraged to eat extra grapes for luck. The tradition continues to this day; people gather in public squares with bunches of grapes and eat twelve at midnight for good luck through the year.
Mexico also has a similar twelve grapes tradition where a grape is eaten at each stroke of midnight with a wish for the coming twelve months. New Year’s Day lunch is a family celebration with traditional tamales (corn dough filled with meat, cheese or beans) wrapped in corn husks or banana leaves and steamed. The tamales are prepared at family tamaladas (tamale making parties) where the members get together to wrap the tamales. The sweet touch is added by Rosca de Reyes, a ring-shaped bread garnished with candied fruits.
In Japan, New Year’s eve known as Oshogatsu is marked by eating a dish called Toshikoshi Soba, made of buckwheat noodles. These year-end noodles are extra-long, and it is believed that slurping these down without breaking or chewing them will bring longevity to the consumer. Families come together to slurp on the long noodles; it is a ritual that also symbolizes the act of letting go of the hardships of the year gone by, and a positive approach to welcome new opportunities. A New Year’s Day tradition is the exchange of beautiful bento boxes with an assortment of delicacies, each with its special meaning, called Osechi-Ryori, as wishes for health and prosperity in the year ahead.
In South Korea families come together for a meal that includes a soup made with thinly sliced rice cakes. The soup called Tteokguk is believed to symbolize growing a year older, as well as grant good fortune.
Italians feast on lentils and Cotechino (spiced pork sausage) both of which are symbolic. In the past Romans would give a leather bag of legumes to their loved ones with the wish that each lentil would translate to a gold coin in the New Year. Even today, the lentils symbolize wealth and prosperity, and the sausage represents the richness of life. The combination of flavours, and the symbolism makes this a special family meal that ushers in the New Year.
In Greece a special cake called Vasipolita is baked with a coin hidden inside. The cake is shared by family and friends and the one whose slice contains the coin is believed to be lucky, and considered blessed throughout the year. Onions are also a part of the traditional culinary tradition. Greeks believe that the onion’s many layers represent shedding the old to reveal the fresh start of a new year. They also found that even when onions were left alone that they would sprout, which they believed was a sign of rebirth, growth and fertility. Thus the tradition of hanging a bag of onions on the front door.
A similar tradition in Armenia is to bake a large, sweet flat loaf known as tarehats, darin or gata in which is put a single coin or walnut which is baked in the bread. The family member who finds this in their slice is expected to have the best luck that year.
Denmark, Germany and Austria have a tradition of exchanging edible marzipan pigs (made of almond paste and sugar) as tokens of good luck and prosperity in the coming year. Each pig is artfully crafted and it is believed that the more detailed the crafting, the greater the fortune it brings. Once again symbolizing a positive exchange of wishes and goodwill.
In the Netherlands people enjoy oliebollen. Literally meaning ‘oil balls’ these are meant to line the stomach with oil as a shield against the sword attack of a mythical evil goddess. In fact, these are a kind of delicious doughnuts.
In Poland, a popular New Year’s tradition is eating pierogi, a type of dumpling filled with a variety of ingredients like meat, cabbage, mushrooms, or even sweet fillings like fruit. The dish reflects Poland’s rich agricultural traditions and the importance of a good harvest for a successful year. Pierogi are seen as a symbol of good luck, health, and prosperity. In some families, a coin is hidden inside one of the dumplings, and the person who finds it is thought to have a particularly lucky year.
A tradition in Turkey is for people to smash pomegranates in the doorways of their homes. It is believed that that number of seeds that fly out of the fruit indicate how much good fortune will come in the year ahead.
Greece has a similar tradition invoking pomegranates which are believed to be a sign of luck, prosperity and fertility. During the Xmas week households hang pomegranates from their door. On New Year’s Eve all the lights are shut and everyone leaves the house. One member is sent to re-enter the house putting the right foot in first, so that the family gets good fortune all year. This custom is called Podariko which roughly translates to ‘good foot’. Then a second family member takes the pomegranate in their right hand and smashes it against the front door; the greater the number of seeds that spill out, the greater the luck that the New Year will bring.
The Scots have a similar Foot First custom. The first person to enter a household after midnight (the First Footer) brings gifts including traditional ones like shortbread, a rich fruitcake, and whiskey that symbolize abundance and good fortune. The First Footing tradition as it is called blends hospitality with culinary tradition.
In Ireland, bread is an important new year’s food. Buttered bread symbolizes abundance and the absence of hunger. New Year’s Day is known as the Day of Buttered Bread. Another tradition is to wait till the bread from the Xmas week gets stale and hard and the bang it on the walls of the house on New Year’s Day to get rid of bad luck and evil spirits. Perhaps the most significant tradition is setting an additional plate at the dinner table for any loved ones lost in the previous year.
All these traditions are marked by a sense of common sharing, a feeling of togetherness, and thanksgiving. The dishes, with the combination of sweet and savoury, are a reminder that life has its share of flavours, and that these are best enjoyed with the love and support of family and friends. May the year ahead give us all many opportunities for this.
Wishing for a year of Hope, Peace and Joy.
–Mamata








